Frequently Asked Questions

What shipping options do you have?

There are typically 2 ways we ship your product to you.

 

Common Carrier: (Carriers such as Yellow Freight, UPS Freight, etc.)

 

This method of shipping is usually the most cost-effective. If your order can be loaded on to a Tractor-trailer, or other box type truck, this is the best choice. Depending on where you live, there may be an option for home delivery, however there is an additional cost involved, please call for a quote. If you do opt for home delivery, you will need to have people available to unload your products from the truck. It is a good idea to have several people since most of our products tend to be heavy, and/or bulky. It is also suggested to have a tin snip to cut the banding if your order includes flooring or other lumber, and a dolley if you have one.

 

Another option would be “hold for pick-up”. This is a good idea if your home, business, or construction site is not easily accessible with a large truck. The carrier will unload your order onto their local dock and notify you when it has arrived. When you go to their terminal, they will load it onto your vehicle using their forklift. We custom build crating specifically for your order. Hold for pick-up shipping is FREE in most cases! Please call to confirm.

 

Private Carrier:

 

If your order includes items that cannot be loaded onto a box type truck, you will need to have your products delivered using a flatbed trailer. These types of trucks are usually operated by private carriers. Another instance where a private carrier would be needed is if you live in a remote area. If no common carriers conduct business regularly in your area, a private carrier would need to be hired. As with the common carriers, if you require home delivery, you will need to have people and tools available to unload your order. Private carriers can sometimes deliver your order to a local shipping dock if at all possible.

 

Watch Video – What to expect when your order arrives:

What does ``to most US locations`` mean?

In most cases we will ship your order to a terminal closest to your home free of charge. The trucking company will forklift it on to your truck or trailer.

 

If you require home delivery, we can do that for an additional charge, provided a tractor trailer can easily access your home.

 

If you have a business with a forklift, we may be able to deliver there at no additional charge.

 

Some metro areas will incur a “Metro” charge.

 

Please call before ordering to confirm your shipping preference. 855-676-4220

What is your process for Pre-finishing??

Hand Sanding:

 

Most of our products have unique characteristics that cannot be replicated using “new” wood. Large, industrial sanders will erase the marks of time from the wood, which is the whole point of rescuing it.

 

Our craftsmen will gently hand-sand your flooring, taking care to preserve the historical integrity of the wood. We can also add a slight micro-bevel to the edges if you like.

 

Alternatively, we can (and will) sand your flooring to a smooth finish, if that is the look you desire. (This option is typically used on our Old Growth flooring.)

 

Add 1.00 per square foot

 

Pre-Finishing:

 

If you decide to opt for hand sanding only, your new flooring will come to you ready to install and finish, or, we will pre-finish it for you. Pre-finishing includes the price of the hand sanding option and will also include the following:

 

100% hand rubbed using Waterlox (a Tung oil based sealer/finish) blended with stain if you wish (see video). Then we finish it off with 2 coats of Vermont Natural Wood Finish. Hand buffed for the exquisite look and feel you can only get from Historic Flooring!

 

Add 4.00 per square foot

 

NOTE: Some of our customers like to put the last finish coat on themselves, after the flooring is installed. If you choose to do it this way, we will ship the finish along with your order.

How should I stack my flooring when it arrives?

When your flooring order arrives, notice the different widths and lengths of the planks. It is highly recommended that, when unloading your flooring, you stack the planks according to width, with the longest planks on the bottom. This will make it easier when you are ready to lay your floor. It is also a good idea to set specially crafted and otherwise character-rich pieces in a separate area. When it comes time to lay your floor, you will be able to strategically place these pieces in high visibility areas.

What to expect when your order arrives?

Watch Video – What to expect when your order arrives:

How do I ``peg`` the nail holes in my flooring?

If your reclaimed flooring has existing nail holes, or if you decide to screw or surface nail your flooring, you can use this method to fill the holes with matching or contrasting wood. Hand pegging is a common practice, and surprisingly simple! In fact, with 2 people working together, 1000 sq.ft. of flooring could probably be pegged in about 3 hours!

 

If you are covering screw or nail heads, be sure to counter-sink 1/4″–3/8″ deep within the face of the plank. You can shave any splinters or rough spots off with a pocket knife.

 

Next, cut a strip of wood just a tiny bit bigger than the hole you want to peg, and make it as long as you feel comfortable with. We usually use 2 ft. long strips. Shave (taper) the edges on the end of the strip with a pocket knife until it fits snugly (similar to sharpening a pencil the old fashioned way). Now, tap it in with a hammer (you can use a little glue if you want). Finally, saw it off flush and sand any rough or high spots. Repeat until the strip is too small to work with.

What happens if my product arrives damaged?

When you receive your product, be sure to CAREFULLY inspect it for visible damage. If your product arrives in a crate, be sure to note any damages to the crate itself. This is VERY IMPORTANT! If you accept and sign off on the bill of lading with no exceptions, it will make it impossible for us to file a claim with the trucking company. It is also a good idea to snap a few photos if you notice any damage to the product or it’s packaging.

How long should I let my flooring acclimate?

Acclimating your flooring is very important. This allows the wood to “get used to” your home’s environment, i.e. temperature and humidity. Always unload your wood flooring into the house, ideally into the room where it will be laid. If you cannot unload it into the room where it will be laid, get it as close as possible, but it definitely must acclimate inside the house…not in the garage or an outside storage building.

 

Contrary to popular belief, acclimating is not a matter of time, but a matter of moisture. Ideally, you will want the moisture content of your wood to be within 3% +/- of the moisture content of the subfloor. Since most people don’t have a moisture meter laying around, we typically suggest 2 weeks. Try to plan for this very important step, because skipping the acclimation process can cause a lot of problems after installation.